Yves Salomon, Fashion Varieties.

Yves Salomon RTW 19- Fall-winter 2019 collection

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion EditorBy Tony Glenville.
Tony’s reviews

Yves Salomon RTW 19- Fall-winter 2019 collection
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Sunday 3rd March 2019 5 rue de Castiglione, Paris

Andre Walker was 5e guest designer responsible for a special range up cycling and re cycling for Yves Salomon.

A black mink bomber jacket was shaved twice to make it seem like the softest corduroy on the planet, and the capsule range included a fringed dress with an Art Deco cutie on the front as well as some rich deep cranberry cropped pants shown with an easy short jacket in deep coffee colour, trimmed at the collar and cuffs with the same cranberry.

This was the first group, in another room a Polar Expedition range grabbed my attention. Clearly designed for the coldest possible weather; Siberia, Alaska, wherever. The huge pieces in grieve, beige and white fur were ready to wear for the Gold Rush.

However, none of them was like a bulky bear coat, a long slim straight coat, a short belted coat, or a fur trimmed jacket and so on, were shown with huge fur hats and boots. Overall though there was a skilled lightness to the whole group.

In other rooms the range of looks was fabulous offering short and long, coloured and classic, graphic black and white or soft muted neutrals. Stand outs for me were the pieces in soft sage green, a white wool coat with white trim and a stunning faux leopard coat which any self respecting diva would demand to have in her wardrobe for stage door exits and first night applause.

A teddy textured coat was in two shades of terracotta, dark and pale, and was seamed into a linear Art Deco pattern all over. In its simple belted shape it reminded me of the work of Sonia Delaunay or Vionnet. Finally I would mention the plush surfaced coat in rich fudge brown, delicious.

Again in a classic double breasted coat with braid lapels, it could be worn anywhere at any time, but I detected a hint of Downtown Speakeasy and jazz in its 1920’s lines.

So don’t tell me you couldn’t find anything to like in these collections; classic to witty and simple and streamlined to complex and patterned.

Fur goodness sake.

 

TG.

 

 

Yves Salomon – Ready-to-wear 2019 collection
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Paris Fashion Week 2019
Womenswear Fall 2019 collection

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