Uma Wang, a calm beauty
Uma Wang RTW 19, Fall-winter 2019/20 – Paris Fashion Week 2019
Uma Wang presented her collection and we were enchanted! The slow march of the models through the space of the Descartes University and the rhythm of the show was hypnotic in its loveliness, from the first ivory tinted outfit to the finale.
The long lines, the soft textures and the colours worked in a zen like harmony. So shapes first; long tunics, long slim but easy shaped dresses, robe like coats and soft wide but not exaggerated trousers, layers of these shapes included a scoop necked tunic with a very soft frill around a low scooped neck, a square cut poncho-like shape over a tunic shirt, long, long unstructured coats with big folded back revers, and short wide easy tops which combined the function of a jacket and a cardigan in their ease.
Floor length skirts swept past and long side split tunics opened up over both these skirts and softly constructed trousers. The designer varied the layering and proportions of all these pieces in a seemingly endless set of variations, so that at times the slim silhouette flared and opened out from the shoulders into a trapeze shape for a few moments and them fell back into a column.
The fabrics used for the collection were amazing, from the simplest slightly textured, crunchy surfaces in wool and linen mixes, with a slight canvas feeling to them, to damask weaves; every surface mattered throughout the collection and within the layering came also the layering of texture and colour.
A crumpled surface satin was laid next to a matt wool, or textural brocade type weave was again next to this plain dry surface, soft floaty fabrics moved against heavier weight fabrics creating a balance.
There were optical check weaves in different scales and proportions used to add to the ceremonial feeling of the pieces. Velvet appeared in one case as the split sleeves of a curving shouldered coat, cut like a robe for a Venetian Doge.
Finally the colours moved from ivory, off white, ecru, pebble, through into olive and green tinted natural shades and gradually introduced deep cardinal and heraldic reds.
The tones selected seemed very related to vegetable and natural dyes, having a softness and a depth to every one of them.
In summary, a truly beautiful collection, with an individual approach to fashion and style and whose presentation was truly memorable for its impact.
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RTW19 Fall-winter 19/20 Runway show photo gallery
Paris Fashion Week 2019
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Photos with the courtesy of Michele Montagne