Rochas, Elegance personified

Rochas RTW 19, Fall-winter 2019/20 – Paris Fashion Week 2019

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion EditorBy Tony Glenville.
Tony’s reviews

Rochas RTW, Fall 2019/20 collection
Vote : 5 (100%) 18 vote[s]

 

 

Alessandro dell’Aqua is a designer whose clothes step out onto the catwalk with a feeling he loves every piece. The soft ribbons, the flurry of ostrich feathers, the swing of the back of a dress, all speak of the care taken in each and every look.

The opening looks in crunchy black and white tweeds with jet fringe sparkling or the ostrich fronds dancing in the air were ravishing. This season there was also a deep lagoon blue, raspberry sorbet, blush pink and a touch of marigold in the collections colour palette.

However, the silhouette, the shape, and the proportion are key to the clothes.  The silhouette seemed to swing from a high line, a frill might be placed empire line on a coat, the Watteau back of a long evening dress, the dress whose bell sleeves and flounced hem swung as it went along the catwalk.

Frequently bows fastened at the nape of the neck taking the eye downwards in a long line. A classic coat in  pale biscuit was tightly belted just under the bust, and the frill of the coat was added to a bolero jacket.

This emphasis on shape also embraced a straighter silhouette, slightly echoing the Balenciaga “sack” silhouettes. A collarless coat, a blue slipper satin shift dress, or a feathered coat retained this clean line.

Yet many delicious items were simply great looks; an easy sweater shown with a feathered skirt, a streamlined black jersey backless dress hantilly lace cocktail dress, or black taffeta trapeze coat cut with narrow shoulders and sleeves with a neat shirt collar.

The audience was full of women wearing previous seasons Rochas, and judging by the sound of the the applause, and the smiles on their faces, a great deal more shopping is about to take place, if I’m not much mistaken.

Congratulation Alessandro dell’Aqua.

 

TG.

 

 

Rochas RTW19 Fall-winter 19/20 photo gallery – Paris Fashion Week 2019

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