Toni Maticevski : Something Truly Special – Paris Fashion Week 2019

Toni Maticevski 2019 RTW – FW19/20 collection – Womenswear

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion EditorBy Tony Glenville.
Tony’s reviews

Toni Maticevski RTW 2019 FW19/20 collection
Vote : 5 (100%) 18 vote[s]

 

 

Making evening wear, special occasion or Red Carpet womenswear is a conundrum; understated, overstated, classic or what? Which route does a designer choose?

Toni Maticevski has solved this by simply remaining true to his own vision, at the heart of which I believe are the fabrics.

This season there is a lot of pale tulle and layers with white and shades of white. The fabrics evoked the colours of old fashioned face powder colours, especially in the soft swirling and unfolding layers and frills.

The draped and ruffled pieces seemed to alight onto the models when they wore them, seemingly wafted there by a breeze, rather than made by human hand.

This lightness and delicacy was at its most extraordinary in a dress whose huge ruffled train stretched so far away from the basic bodice, that the only place to display it was suspended from a very high step ladder, in fact imparting a strange Tim Walker like incongruity to the industrial chrome and the featherlight tulle.

One group of pieces really caught my attention because of the extraordinary Italian sourced fabric; like tiny raindrops or splashes against a taffeta surface the white and grey speckles on a chalk white ground were simply beautiful, giving a pointillist impression; coat, dress, pants etc all displayed as one unique story.

There was also in complete contrast a black and white story with bold My Fair Lady stripes, also an abstract animal effect created by embroidery and beading, and monochrome geometric embellishment.

Maticevski combined the stripes and the abstract in one particular look but draped the stripes to actually give a zebra effect. It is this imaginative, individual approach to his collections which has made Toni so popular with many stars. Finally, there were the bags.

Although there are simpler examples it was the embroidered and decorated clutches which grabbed my attention.

Like sea anemones or Great Barrier Reef denizens the tendril and tufts sparkled and shine like precious objects d’art; placed on a table they would be as lovely as when carried and used.

 

TG.

 

 

Toni Maticevski RTW19 Fall-winter 19/20 photo gallery – Paris Fashion Week 2019

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