Loewe, Inspired Pieces – Paris Fashion Week 2019

Loewe RTW 2019 FW19/20 collection – Womenswear

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion EditorBy Tony Glenville.
Tony’s reviews

Loewe RTW 2019 FW19/20 collection
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J.W Anderson took the past, craft and Loewe and with his talent for alchemy kept us on the edge of the seat to see what he might pull out of his magicians hat next.

Would it be a hat like a Brueghel housewife? Or the ivory ribbed knitted cape hinting at Tintoretto? The swing coat with deep fur hem could have appeared at many a court of the past, whilst a suffragette suit with bustle, waisted jacket and clutch was strong and severe.

This historicism was so eclectic and all encompassing that it ceased to matter in a sense, yet the whisper or hint of something we half recognised from art history, a miniature by Hilliard or simply a forgotten image, was the thread which held the collection together.

A white romantic blouse under a black jerkin and trousers whispered in my ear “Romeo” the long white dress with semi transparent decorative skirt attached to a slim knitted bodice murmured “Poiret” and the cream ribbed oversize sweater nudged the word “eighties” into my thoughts.

The mad fringe streamers, the huge pom poms and harlequin pattered coat in pale banana and check patchwork all gave a nod to Venetian Carnival, and the Victorian paisleys obviously reminded us of the great British monarch.

Yet aside from all this the thing I most loved were odd pieces which stood out for me. The opening severe black coat, the swing coat with portrait collar and sculptural metallic buttons, the asymmetric sweater with the abstract decoration, the khaki coat, the fluid tunic with the finest of red bow ties and edging, the trapeze coat in classic camel striding past.

The pyjama striped tailored suit with the immaculate camel coat folded over the arm of the model wasn’t timeless or historical or any of those things, it was just fabulous in every possible way.

The chessboard jacket with trumpet sleeves was brilliant worn with wide plain pants, and the long hammered satin skirt worn with a neat ecru cardigan was evening elegance forever. I confess however my favourite look was the final outfit, which was a tiny bit historical, and was the cascades of white crepe with huge picot edging worn with a fit and flare trumpet sleeved black crepe coat.

So Tudor to today, Anne Boleyn to Katherine Hepburn; whatever the influences were, and are, it’s the clothes that count, and there were plenty of stunning looks in this collection for Loewe, and in the end isn’t that is the most important element?

TG.

_______________________
Jefe de Prensa | Press Officer

 

 

LOEWE RTW19 Fall-winter 19/20

Photo gallery – courtesy of Loewe
Paris Fashion Week 2019

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Reflected on black herringbone parquet, a collection of miniature oval-shaped portraits is hung upon white walls inside the Maison de l’UNESCO for the Fall Winter 2019-20 LOEWE Women’s show by Jonathan Anderson.

Dating from the 16th or 17th century and encompassing paintings of English, Flemish, French, Italian and Spanish provenance, these Post-Restoration works represent ladies and gentlemen (both famous and forgotten) from Mary Queen of Scots to King Charles I.

Musing on analogue forms of communication in the digital present, each painstaking facsimile invokesthe marriage of form and function at an inherently personal scale.
Born from obsessions of scrutiny and perfection, the collection approaches significations of desire with laser focus. Foregoing excess narrative, a singular conversation dictates the interaction between craft and silhouette.

Through fragments of iconography, a precise classicism throws the new curve of garments into sharp relief. Pigment shades of saffron, cerulean and vermillion break the
uniformity of black, olive, navy, camel, ivory and wine.

Provoking dense layers of opacity, smooth leather, satin and sartorial fabrics intersect in striped or checkerboard kimono coats, as pin-tucked organza and organdie is fused with ribbed knitwear. Hammered two-tone silk separates are plaited or bias cut, complimenting the 360° construction of tailoring with slotted lapels and sloped pockets, inflated jeans, and bell sleeve jackets.

Inspired by midcentury Coret millinery, winged satin skullcaps are joined by artisanal feats and paradoxical textures, from knitted marabou scarves to pearl armour, silver tinsel and rick rack broderie anglaise.

Each new gesture flies in the face of the season’s rigorous polish, grounded on beechwood pedestal Chelsea boots and tooled point moccasins.

The LOEWE accessories collection introduces the new Lantern opera bag in crocodile and calfskin, featuring an internal light and mirror construction in tribute to the 1950’s ‘Straeter Lite-On’. Scaled up and down, the Lazo handbag in shiny box calf appears in a new mini shape, whilst the Puzzle and Gate bags return in striped leather.

 

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