Issey Miyake, Miyamae find’s his stride
Issey iyake – Ready-to-wear Fall-winter 2019/20
Issey Miyake, FW19/20, March 1, 2019, Lycee Carnot, Paris
This seasons showing for the collection Issey Miyake held at the Lycee Carnot felt like a departure from other season’s.
The same ample and undulating shapes were there, the same inventive approach to pleating and texturing fabrics that make them feel more living than not, and the same artist’s approach to fabric’s prints were all in check.
And yet, the collection felt lighter, newer, less worked-over than previous years. It reminded me of the feeling when Issey Miyake was designing the collection himself. Then the collection did not feel labored.
That was just the way Issey saw clothes, and so he made them that way, without trying to make them something more. No big story or revolution. But they were, because the way Issey saw shapes, the way they should mold and fold and envelope the body was different than the way anyone else ever saw them.
It was in this light feeling that this season’s collection verged. Yoshiyuki Miyamae has been at the helm of the Issey Miyake women’s since 2012, although Mr. Miyake himself still officially oversees all collections for the brand. Could it be that after 7 years fine-tuning Miyamae’s creative chisel that the brands DNA feels like a second skin? If so maybe other big French brands, which tend to eat their young at a terrible rate, have something to learn from this long-sighted view.
Colors, this season were bright and contrasting with prints graphic and patch-worked. There were plenty of eye-popping contrasts and neon hues highlighting the rest.
Some of the combinations: neon green, grape crush, ultramarine and grass looked cool and futuristic. But there were also some eye comforting looks. One example was a tonal grouping of brick, soft red, plum, and tangerine. Others, helping break up the rest were fifty shades of grey, white, black and other brighter solids.
These were especially successful when matched with a printed piece. There was an exceptional new textured fabric that broke in geometric triangles like a grid creating a shimmering texture over the garment. And in white it was one of this season’s best looks. The shoes also have to be mentioned. These were a classic men’s Chelsea boot which from afar looked like modern trainers. The white or black fronts were contrasted with flashy colorful blocks at the heel.
These brought a sporty, boyish feel to the volumous and unconventional silhouettes. This collection was wearable, and fashion relevant, and one could imagine anyone from 15 years to eternity finding a comfortable way into it.
And somehow, however modern the look, even granny would look sublime.
Issey Miyake Fall-winter 19/20. Runway show photo gallery – Paris Fashion Week 2019
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