Leonard, Sticking to Tradition

LEONARD Fall-winter 2019/20

Loanna-Haseltine

By Loanna Haseltine
> Loanna’s reviews

LEONARD RTW 19 – Fall-winter 2019/20 Womenswear
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Leonard F/W 2019/20 March 1 Hotel Salomon Rothschild Paris

Christine Phung for this season at Leonard imagined an exotic escape jetting to Jaipur. Models glided past with metallic silver suitcases or bright-colored leather carry-ons ready for flight.

The tradition prints of the label updated with modern silhouettes, one a shimmering white baseball jacket, a solid blue windbreaker, and even a sheepskin bomber were some examples. A tangerine silk satin pajama set with floral plackets for the sleeve cuffs, pockets and down the  side seams of the pants was a particular hit.

Leonard is one of the few brands who have continued to promote their style origins and few designers with the brand have been encouraged to stray. So styling while offering updated shapes to coordinate with the rest of the collection is a key element. Christine Phung keeps getting this delicate balance just right.

One such example was a chalk pinstripe suit jacket  paired with a brand staple- a floor-length floral prairie dress. It was a winning look updating the standard fare one expects from the label. Lipstick-red was a leitmotif throughout the collection.

Sometimes just a sash belted at the waist, or showing up as a solid, boxy, double-breasted blazer over a full and ankle grazing, floral silk skirt, in the sporty loafers or solid satin vans, and again on the stripe bottom trim on a baseball jacket.

Another look, in lipstick red was a double-breasted pleat-waisted silk satin onesie which was particularly yummy; and as a solid, highlighted the rest of the mostly floral printed collection. There was some dramatic beading and hand-work in many of the pieces with a few modern bags balancing well with their looks.

This year Phung stuck mostly with what the brand is known for, drapey or quilted floral silk dresses and jackets which contrasted with last season’s direction in the Maasai tribal, and graphic themes. One wonders where the designer is taking us?

Is she moving gently to update the face of the house as we had thought last season? After this collection it seems she is keeping her feet firmly in what the house knows and maybe sells best.

 

LH.

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