Dior RTW 19, Fall-winter 2019/20 – Paris Fashion Week 2019
Feb 28th 2019, Paris.
Maria Grazia Chiuri knows exactly what she wants to do in terms of the House of Dior, it is firmly based around the iconic New Look which opened the house of 1947 and was named by Carmel Snow when she is reported to have said “Why Christian, your clothe shave such a new look” hence history is born.
The key to the line is a soft full skirt and a slim waisted jacket, and again and again, in myriad ways, Chiuri returns to this but without always using the harder lines of the original as a jumping off point for her inspiration.
This season the jackets and skirts were more mix and match than ever, which of course echoes the original ivory jacket with black skirt but moves it wonderfully forward. Curved jackets in bold black and white plaid, belted jackets in the same plaid, a belted three quarter length coat, even a tightly belted black leather biker jacket.
This item hinted strongly at the brief tenure of Yves Saint Laurent at the House, as Monsieur Dior’s chosen successor. His Rive Gauche aesthetic upset everyone, but of course he went on to be proved right, fashion barriers were being broken down. This is also clear in the less formal approach Maria Grazia favours, a simple shirt jacket, a swing jacket and even a cagoule like pull on top expand the options for today’s clients .
It is however the skirts which thrill, and excite; the craft and workmanship is closer to couture than ready to wear, but of course the investment for the client in such a piece is well worth while.
Clusters of butterflies, lilies of the valley, one of the house signatures, faux cross stitch embroidery, clusters of mother of pearl flowers, bias printed plaid on tulle, and so on. Each skirt is a work of art and can basically be paired with anything from a simple sweater through to a draped taffeta cocktail top or even a crisp ivory tailored jacket.
This update on the original bar retains the key curves of the original but without the heavy and rigid construction. From all of this it is clear that Dior has a designer who respects, understands and employs the archive and heritage of the designer who founded it, but is wise enough to transform that into fashion for the woman of 2019.
One thing is certain, without any knowledge of the history behind them, the clothes are lovely. For the clients this must in the end be the final criteria for purchase and in this Maria Grazia Chiuri wonderfully succeeds.
Dior Resee RTW19
Fall-winter 19/20 photo gallery – Paris Fashion Week 2019
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