Xuan, Couture takes wing
XUAN SS19, Spring-summer 2019 collection – Fashion Week
Xuan Thursday 24th January 12.00
This season Xuan presented the collection in a static display. Hovering in a mist of dry ice the pieces floated and fluttered, like crows, or ravens, since the lightness of the pieces evoked flight rather than earth bound mourning.
Ruffles soared and arched around the pieces and sleeved ballooned with air, bows tied in silky satin rows marched down the front of a garment, ruched and shirred effects gathered and released the softness of the fabrics into fullness.
The bow was a recurring motif but not over worked, and sheer fabrics again enhanced the weightless feeling behind the collection. The curving lines repeated again and again moved from shoulder to sleeves, from ruffle to the sweep of a long skirt and gave a romantic elegance to the clothes.
Each piece was lovely in it’s own right, and the use of black throughout held them together in the space, again like a flight of watchful birds poised to fly again.
Please though next time, these clothes cried out for movement, a model or two wandering around would be marvellous.
XUAN SS19, Spring-summer 2019 collection
About Xuan :
XUAN is the fashion label of Dutch-Vietnamese designer Xuan-Thu Nguyen.
The design house is based in Paris with production in France and Holland. Nguyen is best known for the evocative stories that her clothes tell. Their aesthetic and construction work together to convey the intimacy, surprise and fragility that underlie her personal experiences.
Born in Vietnam, Nguyen grew up in the Netherlands, where her parents founded a textile company. Being raised around a family tradition of craftsmanship influenced her to pursue a career as a designer.
In 1999, Nguyen graduated from the prestigious Charles Montaigne Fashion Institute in Amsterdam. Soon after, she launched her eponymous brand, which aroused the keen interest of industry professionals right from the start. In the following years she received a national award supporting young Dutch creators, as well as presented her work in Gorizia, Italy along with 39 other emerging designers.
Since 2000, XUAN (then called Xuan-Thu Nguyen) has been exhibited in various art galleries in Paris, the Netherlands and New York. Its prêt-à-porter collections were sold in Paris, Berlin, Milan, Barcelona, Los Angeles, New York and Tokyo. 2008 marks the year that Nguyen presented her first Couture collections during Paris Fashion Week.
In January 2017, XUAN presented its Spring Summer 2017 Couture collection as a member invité of the Fédération Française de la Couture.