Dior Delights, RTW FW19/20

Dior, Ready to Wear Autumn/Winter collection RTW 2019/20

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion Editor

By Tony Glenville

Dior RTW 19/20 Fall-Winter collection
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Fashion delights in confusing us; spring couture, autumn Pret a Porter, this season, next seasons, pre fall, cruise?  So whilst we were in the midst of summer Haute Couture I popped over to see next winter’s Dior ready-to-wear.
Maria Grazia Chiuri has also worked on a core collection – 30 Montaigne, and the two were shown in adjoining salons.

 

“ The House of Dior explains beautifully below the thoughts and concept behind this new development”

 

Leon Bakst and the Ballets Russes seemed to shadow the collection, with perhaps even hints of other great Diaghilev designers, such as Goncharova and Larianov. The bags with their folklorique and stencilled designs, had just a hint of ‘Sacre du Printemps’ about them, whilst the amazing work on the late day and evening dresses was truly Poiret meets Bakst.

Organza and velvet zigzags or appliqué and embroidery, or just scattered paillettes across rich earth tones, often with black, were delicious. There was a superb camel coat with embroidery and fringe in pale terracotta and peat brown which had “investment piece” written all over it.

On one rail I espied a series of finely pleated silk tulle dresses in biscuit, ivory and blush dusted with the tiniest silvery sequins. Debussy and ‘L’Apres Midi d’Un Faune’ immediately spring to mind; they were certainly ready to dance, a theme Maria Grazia loves and which was of course very close to Monsieur Dior’s heart.

In 30 Montaigne the classics are not so much revisited as reborn; the originals have been used as an inspiration, not a creative straight jacket.

The Bar jacket, the classic pied de poule check in black and white, the neat structured handbag, all these and more can be found in this collection but refined, revisited and renewed.

The excited buzz in the room engendered by these clothes is a testament to their timeless appeal.

I for one will be saving up to buy the effortlessly chic 30 Montaigne bag in its signature monochrome check – Divinely Dior.

TG.

 

*** Download 30 Montaigne Dior’s Press Release < click here

 

Dior RTW 19/20 Fall-Winter collection

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Karl Lagerfeld by Tony Glenville

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