Antonio Grimaldi, the Couture Sculpture
Antonio Grimaldi SS19 Fashion Week – Spring 2019 collection
Antonio Grimaldi has been showing for some seasons now at Haute Couture. His linear, and sculptural designs have a specific take on evening dressing, with a contrast between the undulating lines and construction on one side, and movement and fluidity on the other.
At its best his work is modern, yet timeless, with an individual signature and a great sense of heritage combined with modernity.
So, what about this season? The opening look with its mobile like decoration vibrating around the model’s head and shoulders, and shimmering fluid transparence, was lovely.
The floor length fringe on the second look, in dove grey, swayed and moved through the salons of the Hotel Meurice, and the fringe dropping from the waist of another look with a huge softly curving cape was delightfully echoed in a narrow cascade at the back.
The robe sirene in soft black silk crepe with a long train was finished with a fountain of pheasant feathers was a true “gala gown”, and the crystal chain mail over white was fit for the Snow Queen of Narnia. Signature curves and drape of fabric, which this designer handles so expertly were in evidence, and the grand entrance making looks always have wonderful exit lines too.
Monsieur Grimaldi understands how to design from every angle to display the wearer to the best advantage.
Antonio Grimaldi, Spring-summer 2019 : 60 sec Runway Show footage
However, there were some odd miscalculations as well, and this felt perhaps like a transition to his next development. Antoni Grimaldi is a true and talented couturier, but this collection felt less focussed and although the shocking pink pieces looked amazing, I missed his great colour sense for unusual and more subtle and discrete colours.
I guess in summation, certain pieces were brilliant, but the balance of the collection felt uneven. I wait to see the next season and where he will go next, with huge interest of course.
Antonio Grimaldi, Spring-summer 2019 : Full Runway Show
Antonio Grimaldi : Front Row Photos