Zuhair Murad- Beyond the Blue Horizon

Zuhair Murad SS19 – Couture Spring 2019 Paris

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion Editor

By Tony Glenville

Zuhair Murad SS19 – Couture Spring 2019 – Fashion Week
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In the chandelier festooned salons of the Hotel Potocki the models of Zuhair Murad strode along a milky way night sky, or was is a deep blue lagoon littered with golden shells?

Whichever, nature certainly ran through the collection as a recurring theme, from heavenly blues to oceanic blues, from coral decorated trails of fabric to flame like fluttering gowns.

The sparkle of blue waters or the stars in a twilight sky? It was fascinating to watch as at the blues of the opening covered the spectrum from aquamarine and periwinkle to seafoam and eau de nil.

Embroideries glistened on taffetas and mousselines and panels drifted past recalling both clouds and waves, marrying the heaven and earth thoughts of this observer.

An ombree, pleated gown was simply magical whatever the inspiration as if fluttered like a butterfly or exotic blossom down the catwalk, the gown with a slim skirt and full folded back into a train was encrusted with the filigree patterns of coral and rose pink dress in a similar silhouette fitted the body of the dress close to the figure and flung the loop of fabric behind the model for he to swing into a dramatic curve.

An entire passage of white was like lilies of all varieties, culminating in the wedding dress. Murad always has a superb bride, every phone in the audience is always raised to capture that show closing moment in all its glory.

This season the dress was especially beautiful, being chalk white with scattered fragmented brilliants embroidered across the surface.

Reflections of sunlight, scattered starts from the milky way, or simply handfuls of crystals flung unto the surface of the fabric? It really doesn’t matter because it was stunning, with clean simple lines, and silhouette and a sweep of veil descending from a wreath of crystallised flowers it was a fairy tale dress, the wedding dress every girl dreams of and in its very classicism defined Zuhair Murad’s philosophy of beautiful clothes, beautifully made to make women beautiful.

A task he accomplishes with great panache and zest.

TG.

 

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