Viktor and Rolf – Read My Couture

Viktor and Rolf SS19 – Spring 2019 Couture Fashion Week

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion Editor

By Tony Glenville

Viktor and Rolf SS19 – Spring 2019 Couture Fashion Week
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The answer with Viktor and Rolf is never, ever try to second guess their collections. This season was certainly no exception; after the previous seasons re-examination of signature pieces from across their archive and collections, shown all in white. This season we seemed to have entered a huge ballroom of insanely voluminous dressed.

As the first model seemingly floated across the huge space of the Gaite Lyrique theatre, a strange Alice in Wonderland enchantment engulfed the room.

Every model had curly wavy hair extending right down to way down past her knees in a cascade or waterfall of hair. Many of the models moved in the manner of Georgian dancers so that the performed a glide with the dresses brushed and swishing across the floor. Colour from the palest Rachel pink through bright peppermint green to classic white or black and even touches of aqua, lilac and pale sage green appeared.

Every dress swung in a silhouette from either literally the shoulders to the floor, empire line to the floor, or a couple started at the waist fanning outwards in tiers and layers.

Huge sleeves and ruffles often gave the silhouette a strange outsize proportion, perhaps the drink that Alice, herself swallowed in the story, which made her grow? Or tiered sleeves exaggerating the triangular silhouette even further.

The dresses featured embroidered, appliqued and stitched words on the front, some a truly modern message “No photographs please” or “I’m sorry I’m late, I didn’t want to come”.

This also begged the question; if traditionally T Shirts were the place for such messages, why not use ballgowns especially in Viktor & Rolfs’ world?  “I want a better world” said the last gigantic black tulle crinoline, and the words surrounded a smiling sun.
Messages in fashion can be misplaced or down right embarrassing, yet with Viktor & Rolf this seemed right and deeply felt; applause started to break out long before the designers took their bow.

This isn’t easy fashion, or conventional couture, but then when did this duo ever offer that? What it was original, challenging and thought provoking, exactly what we expect from Viktor & Rolf.

TG.

 

 

VIKTOR & ROLF – PHOTOS – SPRING 2019 collection

 

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