Rabih Kayrouz – Maison Marvellous

Maison Rabih Kayrouz SS19 – collection Spring 2019 – Fashion Week

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion Editor

By Tony Glenville

Maison Rabih Kayrouz SS19 – collection Spring 2019 – Fashion Week
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In a week where for many haute couture is about lavish embroideries and gala gowns, Rabih Kayrouz stands out for the purity of his clothes. His individual take on fashion and dressing women is totally his own vision and version of fashion, like Geoffrey Beene or indeed Balenciaga, he is working by his own rules, aesthetic and direction.

Now that the house is officially recognised as part of the couture week by the FHCM in Paris it was possible something might change, far from it this was indeed a pure Kayrouz collection from beginning to end.

The deep green and gold Ikat dress with its almost Egyptian feeling was glamourous enough for Elizabeth Taylor but relied on pure lines and the intense structure of the fabric for its magic; a raised waist, a vast curve and fold at the shoulder, a slight bell to the skirt, the model’s hand comfortably in her pockets.

A little black dress worn over slim pants had split sleeves which opened out into softness against the rigour of the look. The ivory dress with its fit and flare lines from high neck to softly flared ankle length skirt was seamed tucked and structured like the terraces of Chinese fields.

A golden wheat coloured coat was a simple shell of floor length fabric over a silk satin polo neck blouse and the simplest of matching pants, in its purity and ease perhaps Halston for the twenty first century?

A soft trapeze line coat in white slightly shaggy Berber fabric was embroidered with strange flowers, buds and twigs in odd tones of teal, geranium, plum and rust. It’s the unexpected in so many details which characterises the house pieces and their appeal.

The gold macramé lace dress where the Joan of Arc like chainmail bodice gradually curved and morphed into degrade insertions of organza was both stunning and a tour de force of the workrooms and ateliers.

Yet in the show it was closely followed by a soft draped white shirt blouse worn with soft grey school uniform, or possibly librarian trousers with soft folded pleats from the waist.

A shocking pink goddess dress with long trailing panels worn over slim black pants, a deep leaf green silk charmeuse dress to the floor slithered around the body with a deep godet at the back kicking into fullness, a golden silk charmeuse dress basically constructed as a huge artists smock was split high at the sides and a deep prune floor length coat was shown over an African  violet dress.

There are frankly too many stand out pieces; more of the gold macramé, daffodil yellow, golden embroideries on silken organza and stripes engineered into soft separates, but in the final analysis what it’s all about is one man’s sensational vision of modern couture for modern women. What could be better?

TG.

 

Maison Rabih Kayrouz SS19, Photos from Front Row

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Karl Lagerfeld by Tony Glenville

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