Luisa Beccaria – Couture Italiano

Luisa Beccaria SS19 – Spring 2019 Collection

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion Editor

By Tony Glenville

Luisa Beccaria SS19 – Spring 2019 Collection – Fashion Week Paris
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As we paused to take pictures of the snow-covered carousel in the gardens of the Ritz, Luisa Beccaria, was already smiling, chattering and showing us her delightful clothes.

Separating the couture from the ready to wear, and gesticulating and touching the garments and fabrics with a designer’s love, care and passion we were swept along from rose strewn tulle to intricate deep teal velvet.

The collection was drenched with a feminine aura, but it was never silly or fussy. The long flowing lines of the rose dresses were had just a hint of Jane Austen or Edwardiana, but were neither retro nor girlish.

The clothes are grown up and for real women, hopefully with the charm and vigour of their creator. The soft silhouettes of the cut filigree velvets were simple and fluid and showed off the beauty of the fabric, despite its velvet surface it was a light and airy as a whisper.

One mousseline dress was of deep rose pink with a print of wisteria, the circular skirt opening up into huge arcs of weightless fabric simply asking to be worn to dance I; perhaps a waltz?

The flowers on a lilac empire line dress were fashioned out of silk thread, they seemed to have just been scattered across the dress with their silver tendrils of leaves behind them and delicious hints of green rustling around the surface.

Finally, after also viewing some stunning resort pieces, and caftans for holidays, we made our departure. The consistent approach of sophisticated simplicity, combining exquisite detail and workmanship, with clean, yet soft, lines was terrific.

The hands and eye of a designer, whose experience truly counts in her editing and focus for every piece, was paramount.

Thank you, Luisa Beccaria, for sharing your enthusiasm and passion with us, and talking us through the beautiful collection.

TG.

 

 

 

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Karl Lagerfeld by Tony Glenville

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