Alexandre Vauthier, The bold and the brilliant.

Alexandre Vauthier SS19 Couture – Fashion Week 2019

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion Editor

By Tony Glenville

Alexandre Vauthier SS19 CoutureFashion Week 2019
Vote : 5 (100%) 24 votes

 

 

Each season Vauthier grows in strength and refines further his signature. The combination of slim against soft volume silhouettes, the sharp contrasted against the soft, and the monochrome palette with injections of colour define each season. His models exude confidence and power and yet also embrace romantic and delicate looks.

Opening with a tiny curved glittering black bubble dress suspended from a miniscule white satin bow tied bodice, he immediately next sent out a sharp black pants suit whose six double breasted gold buttons carried a hint of military but shown with a deep v necked waistcoat and a white cravat tied shirt underneath, was less uniform and more dandy in feeling.

This playing with contrast also showed when he followed a Zizi Jeanmaire mini puffball dress of black tipped plumes springing out between ivory ruffles, with an almost classic ivory trench.

Like Jean-Paul Gaultier, Vauthier is a French designer whose references are French, indeed often Paris. This look was Michel Morgan, Quai des Brumes, Catherine Deneuve, or simply a chanteuse singing of Paris nights.

This season the slouch and curve silhouette were superb, with the arc and arch of many pieces recalling a Balenciaga like feeling for volume without construction. A black shimmering jacket with white matt satin collar and cuffs curved right round from neck to wrist in a seamless line.

The huge animal print ruffled mini dress with its trailing sash also featured the idea of volume, as one saw it from the side the ruffle arched over the shoulder balancing the big puffed sleeve underneath and formed the perfect balance.

A viper green dress carried sharp shoulders and matching stockings to cover the model from top to toe in sparkling reptilian sequins.

A dress the colour of clotted cream featured an off the shoulder draped portrait neckline, huge romantic sleeves to the floor and the briefest of puffed skirts; romantic, bold, sexy, powerful and beautiful.

Two stand out looks for me were the skinny black polo neck, paired with an ivory white mousseline ankle length pleated skirt; the top of each pleat solid crystal embroidery, spectacular.

The final dress was a puff ball shaped ankle length skirt of inky black velvet narrowed to the hem was attached to a pale beige brocade bandeau tied top, scattered with strass.

The model had her hands plunged deep in the pockets of the dress giving it a wonderful attitude of nonchalant modern elegance.

All in all, a truly tip top, winning and wonderful collection.

TG.

 

Alexandre Vauthier Spring 2019, Photos from Front Row

 

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Karl Lagerfeld by Tony Glenville

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