Gravity Defying Acts of Fashion on Display at the Schiaparelli Circus – SS19

Schiaparelli – Couture Spring-summer 2019 Collection – Fashion week

Tony Glenville - DN Mag - Fashion Editor

By Tony Glenville

Schiaparelli SS19 Spring-summer 2019 – Fashion week
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Schiaparelli, 21 January Palais Garnier, Paris – France

If life at couture seems to be a bit of a circus, this season, Bertrand Guyon is certainly the ringmaster with a touch of the surrealist at his fingertips. His oblique view of colour, texture and proportions respect the heritage of the founder of the house; Elsa Schiaparelli and her embracing of the arts surrounding fashion.

Yet, he is also a designer of superb clothes, in the spirit of the maison, and is certainly a creator of superb tailoring. The evidence of his skills is not only to be seen in his inspirations for the coming season, but also in the relaxed confidence of the celebrity front row who were wearing a diverse selection of his creations.

Great catwalk doesn’t always translate so convincingly into great clothes, in this case, for a range of women including Michelle Dockery and Pixie Lott.

This season Marcel Vertes and spring were in the air, with a lightness of touch and a certain fragility reminiscent of blossoms and petals. The delicacy of colour play, and the bursts of unexpected colour were at the heart of the collection.

Silhouettes burst forth like blooms under a spring sun. Curving, winding around the body and springing forth in bustle and back details, the final tiered geranium coloured dress, worn by Erin O’Connor, in the eight month of her pregnancy, seemed symbolic of this birth of ideas, nature and the unexpected.

The technique involved in decorating the pieces in Haute Couture is the great difference between Ready-to-Wear and this special world of magic. Darts transformed into the edge of petals or encrusted white on white embroidery are evidence of skill and concepts alien to ready made clothes.

The curled fronds of ostrich feathers forming huge cuffs, or the brilliant green pavée sequined ballgown further decorated over the first layer with another layer of exquisite deep ruby red sequin flowers, are just some examples.

Add to this silhouette, from fit, flare and flirty, to a long regal gown with a sweeping Watteau back panel and you get some idea of the gravity defying acts of fashion on display at the Schiaparelli circus.

Colour offered a palette of alchemy and wonder, from astrological dark embroideries on blanc cassée, to sugared almonds pales, or deep tulip shapes and brilliant greens from sapin to leaf and mint to leaf.

Indeed a veritable garden of hues. All thanks to the brilliant man cracking the circus master’s creative whip and his amazing flying atelier of magicians.

TG.

 

Schiaparelli – Couture Spring-summer 2019 – Front Row

 

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