Julien Fournié, Leading Ladies Couture
Julien Fournié Spring 2019 Couture Collection – Paris Fashion Week
Haute Couture Collection
Collection’s name : Première plénitude
Last season Fournié specifically focused on the moods and leading ladies of Hitchcock, from Tippi Hedren to Kim Novak.
The collection was divine and sophisticated, and utilized the lightest touch of this with the referencing; if you didn’t know about it, the clothes still stood as great pieces.
So how would or could he follow such a spot-on target show? Nervously I took my seat, but I need not have worried in the slightest. The confidence of last season was developed into a rigorously pared down and sophisticated collection.
The show held hints of the Hollywood inspiration but also actresses’ moods and styles from across the eras, in a softer and more wide reaching series of influences. The references were fleeting, once again no knowledge of them was required to appreciate the beautiful clothes on show, it was more like a nod or acknowledgement or even a wink at the original.
Pale biscuit toned layers of fluttering spiral cut silk mousseline seemed to conjure up the ghost of Carole Lombard, a poison green metallic lamé, stunningly draped gown had a hint of Veronica Lake in “I married a Witch”, a white densely ruffled bolero style bodice with a camel knee length skirt, was perfect for any modern would-be Doris Day, whilst the sharp half-black, half-white, diagonally lined look simply said “Joan Crawford”.
However, it wasn’t all just American film which seemed to imbue the clothes with a huge helping of style, strength and elegance; the soft draped looks reminded this observer of “L’Eternel Retour”, the bustle and train backed animal print dress had the line and drama of Daisy Fellowes at the Beistegui Ball, dressed by Dior, whilst the Delphine Seyrig, and Stephane Audran would have been more than pleased with many of the clothes for a bourgeois touch.
If I mention these influences this is merely to underline the strength of the collection and its reliance on strong women as its thread of influence, these were womanly and empowering looks and many lacked embellishments and fuss or clutter.
The styling similarly had neat shoes, softly waved hair and to complete the image, the classic dark eye, red lip maquillage, which transcends seasons and trends.
Julien Fournié is no longer the enfant terrible or “New Boy” in couture, he is in his prime and has found his strengths lie not in tricks or overstatement, but in respect for his ‘metier’ and an elegance of mind and attitude.
Julien Fournié SS19 Couture collection – Fashion Week : Photos