Ronald van der Kemp – Modern couture for a modern woman – Paris Fashion Week

Ronald van der Kemp Spring 2019 collection

tony-glenville-dnmag-fashion-editor

By Tony Glenville

Ronald van der Kemp SS19, Spring 2019 – Fashion Week
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The key to Ronald van der Kemp’s work is that it is contemporary, modern, and works around sustainability and today’s values, but without mocking or ignoring the heritage and beauty of couture.

The construction and silhouettes have the shadows of great couturiers fleetingly cast upon them but the designers signature is entirely his own, and his strengths are clear and original.

In an eclectic collection it is clear Van der Kemp knows his clients, and they are a diverse crowd, from minimalist to streetwear.

By sending out a divine goddess gown in matt grey pleats and a nylon patch work track-suit, he lays down the whole pack of cards for us to select a winning hand from.

Stand out pieces for this observer were the slender evening dresses such as the opening asymmetric drape of pale ivory and snow white, the grey striped trench coat dress and throw which was so Fifth Avenue, and the denim tuxedo look had the Marianne Faithful attitude.

The superb d’Artagnan cape worn over brilliant yellow blouse and ice blue pants updated a certain Monsieur Saint Laurent, and the pert Parisienne in white coin dots on a black ground, hourglass shaped dress, which must surely be destined to be worn by Dita Von Teese?

However, it is the floral draped mousseline pieces that truly show van der Kemp’s touch of genius; slender or ruffled, floating in panels or flip, hemmed and flirty.

The movement, the glamour, the sheer delight in his use of fabric is conveyed as the models stroll and pose, knowing that they look absolutely fabulous from every single angle.

Couture magic in their weightless charm, and timeless couture beauty. Merci Monsieur van der Kemp.

TG.

 


 

 

 

 

 

Ronald van der Kemp SS19 – Photos

 

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Karl Lagerfeld by Tony Glenville

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