The Prime of Monsieur Rolland
Stéphane Rolland, Spring 2019 Couture Collection – Paris Fashion Week
Across the seasons, Stéphane Rolland’s use of drama and volume has at times verged on the bombastic; the overwhelming silhouettes and the statement pieces often swamping the collections.
The last two seasons have seen his focus shift firmly onto his strengths and talents thus engaging us in a new, relaxed and focussed Stephane Rolland.
Set in the foyer of the Theatre des Champs Elysees, where many of Diaghilev’s extraordinary Ballets Russes premiers took place, this show and collection was sublime. It was worthy of the maestro himself.
Why? Well the soundtrack to the show was Debussy, whose music may be “classical” but which is truly timelesss or indeed contemporary in its sound colours. Secondly the location and the model casting was spot on with the mannequins strolling out into the foyer and then grandly ascending and descending the stairs either side, and the styling was beautiful.
The elegantly wrapped heads and hommage a Cleopatre eye make-up complimented and completed the look.
And the clothes? Crystal white crepe wide-legged looks, a huge black tulle swing back on a slender column of white, a sharp white nine tenths length coat over black palazzo pants, jonquil yellow over pale biscuit or golden daffodil yellow either split and sexy or in huge grand folds of fabric.
A shimmering gown in frosted pale beige and a caftan in a Bakst like swirling print.
I think my favourite look was a vast skirt or beige tulle over black worn with a tiny draped bodice in toning silk satin with scattered sparkling embellishments. Of course I also loved the miles of white organza whipped into a merengue confection of blouse and tiered peasant skirt.
The truth is Stephane Rolland never put a foot wrong from beginning to end. It was all perfectly judged and quite, quite stunning. However, we cannot miss out mentioning the Art Deco bride, who was truly beautiful with her cloche like close fitting veil of lace and fluid crepe pyjamas.
The bride was certainly Zelda Fitzgerald meets Linda Porter, but perhaps most of all, Romola de Pulszky the bride of the great Nijinsky.
All in all there is only one thing to say – Bravo.
Stéphane Rolland Spring 2019 Collection / Runway Show
Stéphane Rolland Spring 2019 Collection : Photos