Sankuanz – Underwater Journey in Tailoring – FW19/20
Sankuanz Men Fall/winter 2019-20
15 Jan, Sotheby’s Paris
Arriving on site at the show space held in the Sotheby’s headquarter on the Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris one was guided into a lowly red/pink lit high-ceiling room. Scaffolding stood with layer after layer, built high with writhing and cocooning bodies sandwiched within the layers. The installation 150119.F was just the beginning of the surprises Sankuanz had in store for its viewers for its fall/winter 2019-20 men’s show.
Zhu Tian the designer of Sankuanz was inspired by the underwater world and found his references in an unlikely combination of military diving suits, sailor uniforms and killer whales.
In his looks which were a converging of two styles, that of tailoring and the other, pure sportswear came together in an urban, hard-edged and a little S&M. The silhouette was sometimes 1970s with shiny suits consisting of long vests nipped slightly at the waist and matching equally long belle-bottom pants. Other times the silhouette seemed straight from the 60s with a boxy zippered multi-pocket jacket and peg-legged pants, and one was sure to see a mod David Bowie to step out from behind the wall.
There were loads of long coats and trenches, pea coats, bombers, rain-slickers, fireman coats and military parkas. Zippers were rife: slashing up outside seams of pants, and multiplied and positioned on boxy jackets.
The color palette was mostly in black and white with accent pieces in blue, purple, grays, camel and brown. A bit of neon was added in details of the technical sport looks. A few monochromatic camouflage pieces, snake-prints, plaids and checks, and denim were also present alongside solid mostly white and black looks in the technical fabrics, leathers, lycra, heavy boiled wool felt, and wool serge.
The collection was sporty and fun and regardless of the dark color palette and underwater theme, full of optimism and with a light spirit.
Sankuanz Men Fall/winter 2019-20 – Photos