Jean-Paul Gaultier –  It’s all  in the mixing! – Paris Fashion Week Couture Spring 2019

Jean-Paul Gaultier Couture – Spring 19 Collection

tony-glenville-dnmag-fashion-editor

By Tony Glenville

Jean-Paul Gaultier SS 19 Collection – Fashion Week
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“It’s a little bit funny” by Elton John is the perfect soundtrack to Monsieur Gaultier’s fantastic inventions.

 

Why? Because in truth no one is more serious about his work and the craft of Haute Couture. Hence his continued embracing of the metier and his witty but focused application of the ateliers and his continual re-examination of his key creative elements.

Sharp black tailoring- tick, the Breton sweater- tick, nights of fun in the clubs- tick and so on, but always at the very heart and core are sensational clothes, beautifully executed.

This season both the song, and the natural phenomenon of, La Mer, some disco nights, combined with obi sashes and japaneserie, were stirred into his alchemist’s pot of transformation. Like the perfect casserole or pot-au-feu, it’s the outcome not the individual ingredients that matter in the end.

Gaultier can overwork a theme occasionally as though he is reluctant to let go, but this season found him on tip-top form. Perhaps also Fashion Freaks (Folies titles are always thirteen letters long) at the Folies Bergeres has given him the opportunity to fling his wildest imagination onto that stage.

 

If, by the way, you haven’t seen it go, if you possibly can, its marvellous.
Fashion Freak Show < click here

Opening with the summery stripes in both blue and black, he moved onto this seasons sharp tailoring with a pagoda shoulder which echoed throughout the collection. The spin on corsetry was a pagoda like construction with the tapes and ties fringing the silhouette. The stand out pieces for me, were often surprising and seemed to embrace Gaultie’rs confidence this season to simply do the pieces his eye and mind dictated.

A pale blue tiered and flounced dress was not simply like waves and ripples of ‘la mer’, but in fact as it twisted and turned with its own volume seemed like a cloud or a confection; wonderful. The long seaweed green dress also looked towards the Chinese lanterns folded construction, as it rippled around the body and undulated down the catwalk.

The extraordinary striped and fringed kimono which was a slender sliver of fabric over a column of white hinted at Ballets Russes and Leon Bakst, as did the long dress with a tiered hem and wide ruffled sleeves. The long striped dress worn with Nancy Cunard style multiple bracelets also looked towards this mood, perhaps in the colour palette and the balance of the patterning.

The red tulle ball gown with winged shoulders had both drama and a lightness as its vast skirts, swayed and swung along the catwalk. The spiral motif cropped up several times and this movement within the pieces, perhaps returning to the sea theme, gave a summer lightness entirely appropriate to the collection.

Anna Cleveland closed the show as a bride half concealed behind white boned organza panels, her fingers and sinuous arms extending and retracting, beckoning and eluding our touch.

The roar which greeted the designer on his usual run down the catwalk confirmed that this collection was a winner!

TG.

 

Jean-Paul Gaultier SS 19 Collection

 

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