Kenzo Gives Women and Men a Sporty, Peruvian Treatment in Color – Fall-Winter 2019 collection

Kenzo Collect Women/ Man fall/winter 2019-20 January 20, 2019

Kenzo – FW 2019/20 – Men’s Fall – Paris Fashion Week

Loanna-Haseltine - Editor in Chief

By Loanna Haseltine

 

This Season show for the fall/winter collection for Kenzo men and women was held at the Carrousel du Louvre in the esteemed museum of the Louvre.

There, one was led into a florescent, deep jungle in a multi-colored labyrinth. This effect was created by the hand painting of the Peruvian floor to ceiling murals. Portholes through the partitioning walls lead one from one room into another and then another again. The colors and paintings drew their inspiration from Humberto Leon, one of the Kenzo dynamo duo, who is of Chinese-Peruvian heritage.

Humberto’s family descended from the Tusan people of Peru, and his Chinese ancestors settled in Peru in the 1800s after coming from the Guangdong province. The tribal and fluorescent bright treatment was not just for the backdrop. Color was alive and seen everywhere, as is often the case at Kenzo. The bright hues of fuchsia, lemon, ultramarine and orange mixed well with the pastel and earthy tones, which served as the color palate’s canvas.

The women’s silhouette was inspired by hiking, and other sportswear shapes. A woven plaid blanket motif also made a showing and Mongolian long lamb fur accessorized its way though the collection in the form of bags, arm cuffs, hats, stoles, and long variegated coats and even the slippers worn on models feet.

There were also versions of Peruvian traditional costume by way of the Pollera skirt. And many fabrics held true to the modern hiking theme as many pieces were in technical, modern active-sportswear materials. There were also several looks in what seemed to be in made in raffia rice bags, complete with their stamped rice-bag labels.

The menswear kept with a similar silhouette in a manly version. The hiking and active sports theme remained with parkas, mountaineering pants and large military-like ponchos and mixed effortlessly with the more tailored shapes. Color-blocking was used in many of the looks for men, and tied in well with the woven plaid blanket motifs.

The color palate, as with the women’s line used a base of earth colors, but was a bit stronger than in the women’s line and omitted the pastel story completely. Saying that, there were plenty of saturated pinks to hold the eyes captive and models looked plenty manly with their sporty military shaping and juxtaposition with deep burgundy.

Shoes for men, were bright and color-blocked, a Kenzo take on mountaineering boots and a few tech-y sneakers and sturdy dress shoes.

At the mixed Kenzo show there were plenty for fall/winter looks for an active, sporty man or woman to choose from. Even for those who will not be hiking mountains in Peru.

LH.

 

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Kenzo – FW 2019/20 – Men’s Fall 19 collection – Paris Fashion Week
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