Wooyoungmi, Jazz and Hip-Hop mix for a Modern-day Gatsby
Wooyoungmi Men’s Fall-Winter 2019-20 collection – Paris Fashion Week
By Loanna Haseltine
Salle Wagram 75017 Paris, 19 January 2019Wooyoungmi showing on Saturday at the elegantly dressed Salle Wagram in Paris was an ode to the roaring 20s Jazz era and to Scott Fitzgerald. The center of the show space was festooned with three momentously large crystal chandeliers hanging nearly to the floor and gave a ‘Great Gatsby’ feel. Cordoning off this center stage juxtaposed metal grill structures for blocking road works and current citizen strikes in Paris and was a nod to the modern life and to city streets.
The collection took life with a mix of sport and tailored looks while mixing hip-hop with a 1920’s dandy. There were even a few looks leaning to a Mick Jagger 1960s à la Rolling Stones.
Papery and shiny leather pants worn with drippy oversized button-up shirts with shirttails hanging was one look. Others, stripy sweater vests were worn with plaid yellow Zoot suit pleated pants. Boiled and felted wool dusters with large oversized shirt collars peeping out from necklines with high water pegged pants exposing bright yellow, red or blue socks were still other looks shown.
Layering was a major affair, and occurred mixing styles, eras and silhouettes. An orange heavy plaid boxy lumberman’s jacked worn over an aubergine tailored redingote, and varnished leather perfectos over a long three-buttoned suit blazer were some of the combinations.
Materials were as varied as the style mix. There were crisp laminated leathers, light stone-washed denims, some over-dyed in yellow or orange, heavy woolen boiled wools for tailored looks, knits for sweaters and soccer jerseys, plaid fuzzy mohair vests and corduroy. There were the obligatory technical sports fabrics that made their showing and not just in the shiny puff- ski-jackets.
Colors were traditional autumn colors that we have seen throughout the season. With a palette ranging in orange, versions of brown, mustard, aubergine, kaki, camel, grey and cornflower blue with bright yellow and ultramarine for contrast.
Somehow and with an expert hand all of the diverse elements came together in this seasons offering for next fall /winter for the modern Wooyoungmi man.
Wooyoungmi Men’s FW 2019/20 RUNWAY SHOW
WOOYOUNGMI Fall/Winter – 2019/20 Collection
About Wooyoungmi :
Wooyoungmi (stylized as WOOYOUNGMI) is a menswear clothing brand launched in South Korea by the designer Woo Youngmi in 2002. It is sold through own-brand stores and global retailers. Art and architecture are sources of inspiration for the brand. The brand has become known for tailoring.
In 2014, The Korea Herald wrote :
“Wooyoungmi has become the most successful Korean independent menswear designer brand.”
Madam Woo Youngmi was born in Seoul, South Korea, in 1959. Her father was the head of an architectural firm, which allowed him to travel extensively, bringing home international magazines, which a young Woo Youngmi studied, growing curious about the world outside Korea.
Along with her mother, who taught both art and piano, they did their utmost to use what they had to provide a creative environment for their five children. Wooyoungmi took up fashion studies at Sungkyunkwan University in Seoul. On graduating in 1983 she was selected to represent Korea in Japan’s Osaka International Fashion Competition, and won.
In 1988 Woo Youngmi launched the menswear brand Solid Homme, starting with one shop. Today there are 21 stores opened with Hyundai group, as well as others with Lotte, Shinsegae and Galleria. In 1993 Woo Youngmi and some young designer friends begin ‘New Wave’, as a platform for young designers to show their work. This paved the way for today’s Seoul Fashion Week.
Designer Woo Young-mi founded her eponymous brand Wooyoungmi in 2002. In 2002 Wooyoungmiwas launched in Paris. Youngmi wanted to establish a designer brand that allowed her the freedom to design for the vision she holds of her ideal man. Wooyoungmi has shown on the Paris Menswear Week since 2003.
In 2011 Wooyoungmi became an official member of La Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine. Also that year the brand collaborated with London department store Selfridges on the event “My Coat, My Gift,” Five young London creatives were asked to redesign the brands’ best-selling Coat No. 51.
The resulting designs were exhibited in a special pop-up at Selfridges, with a percentage of the sales of the coat during the event donated to charity. In 2012, under the art direction of daughter Katie Chung, Wooyoungmi began collaborating with artists for the creation of their advertising campaigns.
Artists to have taken part in this project, to name a few, are sculptures Guerra de la Paz and Korean sculpture Osang Gwon with his unique blend of sculpture and photography and painter Clemens Krauss. In June 2014, Wooyoungmi launched a capsule collection with online retailer Mr Porter.
In September of that year Woo Youngmi was named one of 500 people shaping the global fashion industry by the Business of Fashion in their ‘BoF 500’ 2014. Katie Chung, daughter of Woo Youngmi, was announced joint creative director in 2014 and presented her first show in June 2014 for SS15.
In 2014, The Korea Herald wrote that “Wooyoungmi has become the most successful Korean independent menswear designer brand.” Founded in the 1980s, as of 2016, the fashion house Solid Corporation consisted of two men’s labels: Wooyoungmi and Solid Homme.
In 2016, GQ Magazine wrote that “having shown every season in the French capital since 2003 and broken into the western market with high-end stockists such as Selfridges in London and Bon Marché in Paris, Wooyoungmi has established itself arguably as the flagship Korean men’s brand in Europe.”
Founder Woo and her daughter Katie Chung handle design as of 2017.