Issey Miyake Men’s Fall-winter 2019/20
Issey Miyake Men leads the way with the Gilet Jaune, (Yellow Jackets)
Palais de Tokyo Paris – Thursday 17 Janurary, 2019
If you did not know that Issey Miyake’s mens designer Yusuke Takahashi was Japanese, you would swear that he had been influenced by French activists, known popularly as the Yellow Jackets.
Bright yellow was the punctuating color for the Issey Miyake mens fall 2019/20 show. Pieces all nearly in yellow but for giant A-symmetrical brush strokes in black or orange, others in black with horizontally slashed with insets of batik print in the signature yellow. In other looks one found details such as a bright turtle neck under quilted black and grey camouflage jacket, a hip pocket bag vivid against its grey tweed suit, fanny packs, or trainers bright and contrasting in their yellow glory.
The show’s notes mentioned the inspiration for this collection as being the wind and the freeing energy of its breeze. And one did have that feeling when looking at the large swooshes printed on the windbreakers and the loose and boxy suits. There was a sense of the wind having smeared the paint instead of a brush.
Other looks were more traditional and kept to an elegant and boxy yet flowing silhouette, due to their soft wool flannel, linen, and silk and wool blend fabrics. Shapes were generous without being over-sized differing from many designers this season. There was throughout, a gentle balance for the dramatic in the colors and prints without being overt. A subtle equilibrium was kept through the usage of a sober color palette of black, grays, and white, which while the shapes were sublime, they could have become dull without the bright usage of the brushed stroke prints and bright colored details of yellow, ultramarine, burnt orange, red, purple and florescent pink.
This season we saw exuberance balancing well with subtlety and elegance, the sign of a mature designer attuned to his clients and brand.
Issey Miyake – Full Show video Collection FW 2019/20
Issey Miyake – Collection FW 2019/20 – Photos
The theme of this collection is “Feeling the Wind”.
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