A modern expression of Date Masamune – Men’s Fall 2019.
Boris Bidjan Saberi’s FW 2019/20 – Men’s Fall – Paris Fashion Week
Janurary 17, 2019.
Boris Bidjan Saberi’s fall/winter 2019-20 showing today at the Palais de Tokyo was a surrealist expression of a modern samurai. Models clothed in layered textures, and pieces normal to a men’s active wear collection suddenly came alive as the character Date Masamune, Japan’s infamous warrior.
Long hooded parkas resembled kote and do and high-top military boots were like sune-ate, kyahan, and tsurumaki combined. Together with long knitted tunic sweaters resembling a chainmail do. Vests were kimono-eque and accessorized with harnesses, some with front packs like hato-o-no-ita. Kasazuri-like peplums for skirts or attaching to kimono jackets were other samurai costume illusions created by this wearable offering.
To heighten the austere and war like mood, stark lighting of monochromatic gloom gave the illusion more resonance.
Textures mixed in the fabric offering with linen, knotted or horizontally ribbed knits, boiled-wool detailed with mat leather boarders. Technical sportswear fabrics were rife and given the worn treatment. The mix of modern and tradition blurred the lines of legend and street. The illusion this created was effortless.
Colors were muted, neutrals tone-on-tone; such as shades of black, grays and charcoals, creams and white, flesh and soft muted brown. One segment of the collection contrasted with the rest in mint and dollar greens and once again the tone-on-tones treatment was given. This mirroring well the multiplied texture mix. The addition of this fresh green palate was a stroke of genius by adding a lively oxygenating option to the rest.
Boris Bidjan Saberi’s style can be described as a Mad-Max, Burning-man dessert universe. His today’s samurai warrior will find an elegance in the usual testosterone fare and an added refinement to this season’s approach.
Men’s Fall Collection FW19/20 Paris :
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About BORIS BIDJAN SABERI :
Boris Bidjan Saberi is a half German, half Persian menswear designer born on September 11, 1978 in Munich, Germany, to a Persian father and a German mother. These biographical factors play a fundamental role in Boris’s formation : they combine dual systems such as West/Middle East traditions and form/formless garments with the designer’s passion for numerology. 11 is in fact the symbolic trademark of the brand and the name of Saberi’s additional line.
In 2007 Saberi launched his eponymous label, establishing his atelier in a place that fully represents the designer’s complex philosophy. In the frame of Monistrol de Montserrat, Saberi settles his first headquarter, later transferred in Barcelona. Monistrol as well as the current atelier stand for the geographical exemplifications of a secular spirituality, as in these industrial archaeology sites Boris develops the outlines of his alchemist laboratory for contemporary investigations.
Following the inception of the brand, Boris Bidjan Saberi began participating in the official Paris Fashion Week calendar where he nowadays presents his collections. The label increased a distinctive attention for functional qualities, whilst maintaining a strong connection to urban roots. Since 2014, Boris Bidjan Saberi is an official member of the Chambre masculine of the Federation Française de la Couture.
The designer matures a peculiar clothing language through the celebration of his innate heritage between European and Middle-Eastern culture. It is therefore the burst of an instinctive primitiveness in which raw materials and accurate tailoring fuse together.