Fashion Designer Retrospectives 2018

Fashion Retrospective 2018

tony-glenville-dnmag-fashion-editor

By Tony Glenville

 

 

Of course the fashion world has already shown collections for 2019, plus many decisions taking us through to 2020 have been taken, but here is my recap of the past twelve months in fashion.

 

A year in which many things happened in terms of the business of fashion, and mini or micro trends took on more importance than major seismic shifts in fashion. The fashion wheel slowed as problems in politics, economy and culture took precedence over shopping. Accessories, or colour, as a key to updating a wardrobe became directional statements. Familiarity in fashion seemed somehow reassuring in uncertain times, rather than new trends. Gucci eccentricity, modesty in dress, urban street wear and retro, both the 80’s & the 90’s, offered trends which we knew, were found unthreatening. Freshness is coming but it is taking its time and it is going to change fashion, but like any real change; it appears, settles down, establishes itself, and by the time the vast majority have embraced it the fashion pack will have moved on.

 

This shift before the change of a decade is historically established, so look to the 2020’s as we see the emergence of new trends, already bursting forth this year.

 

Debuts this year.

·       Ricardo Tisci at Burberry

·       Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton

·       Hedi Slimane at Celine

·       Kim Jones at Dior Homme

None of them without detractors and supporters. I suggest we “wait and see”.

Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh

Political, economic and cultural concerns.

·       Victoria’s Secret Show – backlash to the “old fashioned” view of sexy women?

·       Melania Trump – wearing a parka across whose back were emblazoned the words “ I really don’t care, do you?”

·       Dolce & Gabanna – patronising and a “racist” view of China just when they were about to hold a mega show there.

·       Cultural appropriation by many designers – big and small.

·       Golden Globes – women wear black as a #metoo statement

·       Brand Activism – exemplified by Colin Kaepernick for Nike #justdoit

·       Controversial – choking belts, inappropriate lettering or imagery on t-shirts, sexually provocative childrenswear, etc.

·       Hedi Slimane – Celine showing anorexic models, bruise makeup, and micro lengths.

·       Influencers – paid to be paid?? Supporters or experts whose opinion really matters?

·       Fake news – question and check before taking statements for fact. Teaching us to trust those who care to check their facts and sources, for example Robin Givhan in The Washington Post, Vanessa Friedman in The New York Times, and of course Suzy Menkes at Vogue, alongside a few others who have made a reputation by their credibility.

·       China –seen as a big luxury fashion market, as is Korea, where local key brands are already established. Cultural attitudes to dress and fashion, as in all specific markets, can be a stumbling block.

Golden Globes Awards 2018 - DNMAG
Golden Globes Awards 2018 – DNMAG

 

 

Trends

Nothing new or exciting, let’s be honest.

·       What Highsnobiety.com perfectly referred to as “The luxe-street cliché” has been dragging on.

·       Florals, flowing, patchwork, modesty, dresses. From the wrap to the ruffled prairie dress to the streamlined shift.

·       Fluorescent – The Only Way Is Up?

·       Tie and dye. Like denim, this trend is moving further and further up the price scale, from the once perceived cheap and beach hippie category into the designer luxury market.

·       Logomonia – not going anywhere soon, but not for everyone.

·       Upcycling – in whatever form it may take.

 

Tie and Dye - Fashion Retrospective 2018 - DNMAG
Tie and Dye – Fashion Retrospective 2018 – DNMAG
Tie and Dye - Fashion Retrospective 2018 - DNMAG
Tie and Dye – Fashion Retrospective 2018 – DNMAG

 

 

 

 

 

Accessories Trends

As important as the clothes, sometimes easier to access, use and purchase. Plus they often hold their resale value.

·       Fanny packs/Bum bags

·       Dad Sneakers

·       Tiny Sunglasses

·       Kitten heels

·       Gucci

·       Dior

 

Kitten Heels at Pierre Hardy - Fashion retrospective 2019 - DNMAG
Kitten Heels at Pierre Hardy – Fashion retrospective 2019 – DNMAG

 

Phoebe Philo mania.

Collecting, hunting down, missing and generally wanting back the designer.

 

Colour Trends

Pretty much all colours are “in”, somewhere in the world, since colour is both cultural and political as well as fashionable.

·       Ultra Violet

·       Peach/Tangerine

·       Pinks

·       …….and continuing in many variations: blue, green, yellow, orange– nature’s colours.

 

Hommage to Martin Margiela

·       Martin Margiela at Musee Galliera

·       The Hermes Years at Musee des Arts Decoratifs

 

MARGIELA - HERMES YEARS- Fashion Retrospective 2018 - DNMAG
MARGIELA – HERMES YEARS- Fashion Retrospective 2018 – DNMAG
MARGIELA - HERMES YEARS- Fashion Retrospective 2018 - DNMAG
MARGIELA – HERMES YEARS- Fashion Retrospective 2018 – DNMAG

 

 

The

Blockbuster Museum Show

The Metropolitan Museum New York

Heavenly Bodies – Fashion and the Catholic Imagination

 

Emerging Trends

Slowly developing, or already on the horizon, fashion is about more than simply the pieces themselves.

·       Tailoring

·       Elegance

·       70’s Rive Gauche

·       The 60’s/70’s brown palette with orange/yellow

·       Haute Vintage

·       Renting Designer pieces

·       Black for summer

·       Can fast fashion be sustainable?

·       Who made your clothes?

·       International Fashion Weeks from Tbilisi to Lagos.

 

Tbilisi-Fashion Retrospective 2018 - DNMAG
Tbilisi-Fashion Retrospective 2018 – DNMAG

 

Buying & Selling

Kering had a brand edit and shed – Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney and Puma.

Michael Kors Holdings Limited, now named Capri Holdings Limited, acquired Versace.

 

This year we lost the following exceptional talents:

·       Hubert de Givenchy – Couturier

·       Anna Harvey – Editor

·       Rick Genest – Model

·       Bernadine Morris – Journalist

·       Michael Howells – Production Designer

·       John Boyd – Milliner

·       Judy Blame – Stylist & Accessories designer

·       Kate Spade – Fashion Designer

 

Michael Howells with Virginia Bates at Claridges-DNMAG
Michael Howells with Virginia Bates at Claridges-DNMAG

 

So there you have my round up of the key trends in fashion for the past twelve months. You may well have a few of your own to add in, but from me for 2018 “That’s All Folks”.

Happy 2019, Tony

T.G

Fashion Retrospective 2018
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