Marques Almeida – signatures all present and correct.
Marques Almeida, RTW Spring 19 Collection – Paris Fashion Week
I’ve long been a fan of this design duo, as have many others, and it was with a keen sense of anticipation I entered the space at the Palais de Tokyo to watch the collection.
-by Tony Glenville
All the things they do so brilliantly were there; denim, twisted proportion knits, brocade, bold stripes and so on, yet somehow for this observer it seemed a collection marking time.
It was also a collection missing their wonderful handling of sheer fabrics, and also the colour palette was less subtle than they are capable. Having stated the negatives, it was still a collection with some great pieces.
The striped knitted tunic suit in shades of lilac, terracotta, lemon, and blue-grey was divine, the Victoriana coat dress in brocade was stunning.
Additionally stunning was the tailored cutaway jumpsuit also shown in black brocade with vivid gold red and blue blooms strewn across its surface. The white trapeze dress with thick encrusted embroidery(Portuguese?) was really a winner.
All the very long Victorian pieces swept pass with a real presence and drama, in top to toe black, black with grey, red or print, top to toe white or in black with shirting stripes and indigo.
The covered up puritan drama of the pieces, whether worn with a longer line tunic proportion, tiered or with flounces, truly worked, since the cut of the pieces never become lumpy but remained always fluid.
The long rows of buttons on several short cropped tops also brought the nineteenth century into the twenty-first.
I just now want to see the next collection where they become more daring, this was lovely, but I believe they are capable of more excitement than offered this time. Onwards!
Photos : Marques Almeida, RTW SS19 Collection – Paris Fashion Week