Beautiful People – transformations and complexity. RTW S/S19 collection
Beautiful People, Ready to Wear, spring/summer 2019 collection
This was the second season for designer Hidenori Kumakiri and his brilliant team to show on the Paris Fashion Week schedule immediately after the Chanel.
– by Tony Glenville
Ledoyen Pavillon Tuesday October 2nd, Paris
Chanel being a mega production at the Grand Palais and it is this contrast which enables us to focus so closely on the exquisite complexity of the Beautiful People clothes.
This season the opening pale ecru and pebble pieces riveted our attention as each look passed by with its papery textures, crumpled ruffles and Greek goddess like plisse fabrications.
Then like an electric shock bright lime zest with a rich marron-glacé broke into the space, building on those textures and forms now in these fantastic colours.
Giant soft madras checks in pink and blue then ice blue and finally black and white.
All the time the sections of each garment were shifted and wrapped and mixed to form softly moving silhouettes and a feeling of dance, especially since many lengths were those of the traditional ballerina and the taille de guepe was repeated.
A double overlapping panel of pleats in black over white with a paperbag waist, forming a ripple around the model: a jacket half-tucked into the waist of a skirt made in tonal dark prints demonstrated perfectly that ideas and brilliant studio construction underpin the beauty of these clothes.
These pieces, in the final analysis need close up examination to reveal the puzzles of the construction, the transformations and the complexity of Kumakiri’s inventiveness.
Two seasons ago he and his team redressed the models in front of us, it was a device repeated this season, but if seeing is believing Beautiful People clothes remain a fabulous conjuring trick; creative fashion at its very pinnacle.
Beautiful People Photos, Ready to Wear, spring summer 2019 collection
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