Akris -the art of fashion – Paris Fashion Week
Akris, Ready to Wear – spring-summer 2019 Collection – Paris Fashion Week
Albert Kriemler not only loves sensational quality fabrics, he loves artists.
– by Tony Glenville
Ledoyen Pavillon, Sunday 30th September
This season his inspiration was Romanian artist Geta Bratescu, who tragically two weeks after agreeing to collaborate on the collection, died aged 92.
But the work lives on. The introductory looks were in cool neutrals, printed and patterned almost like the images of Giorgio de Chirico.
As colours infiltrated the collection in rose and pale sky-blue the neutrals in the collection warmed-up and were joined by more colour including pale eau de nil, geranium-pink and scarlet. Finally black emerged as the key colour with hits of pink and one dress as a sliver of pale gold.
Throughout the show, the key element was movement and softness, and the use of pleats to sway and dance as the models passed.
The technical skills of Kriemler and his team at combining the artistic imagination, softly constructed complexity, and real clothes was breathtaking.
This is a collection where the personality of the designer and his personalisation of a vision of dressing women combined to produce real magic. The great strength of this collection was that it was made to look easy, when we know it was not.
The complex lattice, mesh and filigree effects in the black pieces were almost like wrought-iron, and yet it was whisper-light as they appeared in tiny jackets, soft-rounded skirts or just a basic shift. The fluidity of the minimal pieces, and over-printed pleats, were simply stunning.
Many looks were an awards ceremony, centre-stage calibre.
Akris and its designer brings the art world to the art of fashion in perfect harmony.