CFDA 2018 Showroom Paris – ones to watch
CDFA 2018 Showroom Paris RTW SS19
Of course all the selected designers at the CFDA Showroom Paris should be watched, but even amongst the best there are some who seem a little bit more “the best”.
– by Tony Glenville
So first up I would mention Area, a label created by Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk’s. Glitter mesh, lattice work, tassels and other elements shouldn’t spell chic but in the hands of this brand they certainly do.
The quality and delicacy of the sparkly mesh, the soft swing of the fringe and tassels are all made with a wonderful show of quality; yet also sexy, elegant and fun. Which is exactly as
described in the brochure as “downtown fantasy of an uptown brand.”
Next stop is at Vaquera. This team of three consists of Patric Dicaprio, Bryn Taubensee and Claire Sully. Their imaginative unisex glamour features some amazing fabrics which the French call “destockage”, in other words left-overs! Mad florals and a print of basket ball players metamorphosed into huge ball gowns in these found textiles, and gives you an idea of their brilliant approach to fashion.
A hot pink caplet come top has a Balenciaga flare, or a tiny butterfly like laced up print corselet bodice are just two examples of their sheer inventiveness. Definitely clothes to take centre stage whilst wearing, and not for wallflowers.
The third name to watch is Telford designer, by Telford Clemens. He brings a brilliant sophistication to jeans and shirts where the reverse embroidery, the patch-work and the assemblage of pieces is of the highest possible standard.
Colours have a delightful, faded quality like tinted photographs or something left to fade in the sun, there is a massive dose of subtly in these casual and sporty pieces. Instead of a brash street look Telford could blend in with classic pieces for uptown chic or whizz past on a skateboard with equal ease.
Finally, RtA is another trio of designers, Eli Azran, David Rimokh and Evelyn Ungvari who are a team looking at fashion with creative individuality. In a wild mix of tropical, animal prints, spots, and a riot of ideas they certainly offer options to mix and mis-match or mix and mix again in a fashion cocktail.
Alongside these are some truly stand out looks in plain fine jersey which enhance the fun pieces. These make a declaration of quality and simplicity to support the mix. A bit like a glass of sparkling water next to a pina colada?
So four very different labels to watch and fresh up and coming designers to keep an eye on for future developments. The CFDA was certainly buzzing with appointments when I visited, so certainly orders are pouring in.