Schiaparelli – it’s the surreal thing.
Schiaparelli, Ready to Wear, spring summer 2019 Collection
The legendary couturier Schiaparelli was not just interested in making clothes, she was interested in challenging ideas on beauty, dress and art. The work of Salvador Dali, ManRay or Jean Cocteau fascinated her as much as what fabrics or colours she might be selecting for the season.
by Tony Glenville
Bertrand Guyon at the helm of the haute couture at the house has now launched a Pret a Couture which, judging by the excitement shown by friends of the house during the evening launch of the glorious book ‘Schiaparelli and the Artists’, is already selling. This is Story One with Man Ray as the focus.
The collection is full of wonderful ideas from the T-shirt covered in glass teardrops surrounding the ManRay image of the eye with real glass tears, a double breasted coat with shaggy faux fur which actually looked a bit like Cocteau’s beast in La Belle et la Bete, trompe l’oeil black and white suiting with sharp slivers outlining the silhouette, a cape with a charm bracelet of magic signs embroidered across and around the shoulders, lip prints and many other devices bringing the past of the house together with today and tomorrow, in perfect harmony.
The wonderful selection of pieces ranges from the semi-classic to the extraordinary. The black or white fitted tailleur encrusted with jewelled drops like tiny medallions or military awards are truly special and lovely.
A red mousseline blouse with a tiny gathered sleeve, a khaki military jacket in an extraordinary textured satin, felt like polished straw. Additionally, an beautiful piece was a slender column of printed pleats as a skirt or a black sweater decorated with intarsia spiral spectacles on the front in white.
The new handbag comes in pink, ecru and black and in a range of sizes, the off-centre metallic key lock is the single oddity on bags whose quality and polish is just beautiful; in a crowded market these bags are truly special and eminently convertible.
Later, in the evening the book simply entitled, ‘Schiaparelli and the Artists’ was launched with a splendid Italian buffet and many devoted followers dressed to the hilt in the new collection, it was a chance to show off both the book and the collection.
The stunning and intricate flowers by Nicolai Bergman completed a great event, especially when i took away an exquisite Nicolai Bergman X Schiaparelli flower box of my own.
Schiaparelli, Ready to Wear, spring summer 2019 Collection Photos