Lutz Huelle – Master of his trade – RTW SS19
Lutz Huelle Ready to Wear Spring 2019 collection – RTW SS19
At a time when many collections are simply “clothes”, designers like Lutz stand out for their mastery of the skills inherent in truly being a fashion designer.
by Tony Glenville
The ability to construct a silhouette through the knowledge of pattern cutting, drape, toile, and fittings, the use of the correct and appropriate fabric to realise the garment, and finally the sense of proportion and adjustment required to make the entire final image work, are all skills embedded deep in his work.
Lutz also understands we look at his work for it to evolve, develop and subtly shift; not some seismic seasonal change just because everyone is chasing after the latest trend.
The brilliant sleeve construction he has developed was there in varying lengths from short to long, the military green nylon bomber variations wove their way through the collection; twice slender and fitted, once incorporating a soft floating mesh.
Denim, again in slender spring/summer shapes also appeared, my favourite being a cropped proportion in softly washed denim teamed with filigree black lace and a softly flippy skirt in a monochrome photo print, plus print shoes to match.
This season perhaps the stars of the collection were the little black pieces; a lyrical trapeze dress, a jacket sliced into from the back with rose pattern, and many other black pieces; all perhaps in homage to the great designers of the past, from Chanel through Balenciaga, who regarded black as showing their mastery of the skills of fashion designing at its best.
These pieces certainly demonstrated Lutz’s skills and his understanding of balancing a collection and also how to reinvent and refresh classic items for today’s customer. .
There was there was a huge variety within this rigorously edited collection – just thirty one 31 looks – other designers please take note, from the rose pattern already mentioned, to fuchsia brocade, soft pinstripes, and a wonderful ruffle like a Renaissance flourish which popped up several times in different variation, especially in silvery brocade.
I have always regarded Lutz as a designer with creative integrity and this collection once again confirmed his place as a connoisseur’s designer.
The skills, the craft, the eye and the balance is perfectly judged and nothing in the show jars. Thank you Lutz for showin us that the skills which form the foundation of the fashion business are still valued, utilised and respected.