AFTERHOMEWORK SS19 – Paris Fashion Week 2018
If you have not heard of Afterhomework than you will soon. Because these kids- and yes, I mean kids, have it!
by Loanna Haseltine
In fashion we discuss jeune createur (young fashion designers) and then we meet the creator whom apprenticed somewhere or with someone important Re: Rie Kawakubo.
He is usually somewhere between the age of 30-45. We discuss how his new approach, fresh expression is so “in-touch” with today’s feel- due of course to his youth. Where did Pierre Kaczmarek the designer for Afterhomework apprentise? Nowhere. He is completely unknown. Afterhomework first appeared in 2014 and was created in Pierre’s bedroom with his girlfriend Elena Mottola working on it after school. He was still in high school and living with his parents. He was then 14 years old.
The previous and earliest seasons most journalist like myself went to see Afterhomework because; they were curious journalists and wanted to see what a 14 year old designer with a good PR would do, owed someone a favor, was friends with his PR, or wanted to have something to complain about: another rich kid with too much money and family support. The Socialist French journalist stayed home.
Talent does not always come in an expected tradition.
There were a-symmetrical parachute looks in poplin or drippy silk twill, gathered, draped, and sometimes layered or all of the above at once. Influences of the 20’s designer Madeleine Vionnet, Early Comme des Garçons, and Roman toga 5c were felt.
These looks were detailed in bright colored ripcord readying Kaczmarek/ Mottola team to climb the fashion heights. These accomplishments were sometimes pared with a easy t-shirt or sweatshirt… and why not a towel around the neck for credibility? A wonderful accessory of satchels made of an assemblage of while leather origami-esque boxes finished the look.
What I found Monday was a mature well-developed line. It walked the tight-rope of being creative and plausible. The feat of making something fresh and gutsy, without your customer looking obscure on the metro getting to the office (or in some cases, school) The collection was on-time in the fashion trends without being completely derivative of it. There were new approaches to current fashion plays and volumes shaped in elegance.
Generally everything that sometimes goes wrong while the jeune creature finds his mettle. But not in Afterhomework’s case. I can see this collection doing a good sale out in Harvey Nicks- HK, and Bloomingdales- Dallas. While its younger clientele will have the pleasure of growing up with the brand, I foresee a very happy and loyal following to come.