Dior – Ready to Wear – Spring-Summer 19
Dior Ready To Wear SS19 – A Dance to the Music of Time. RTW SS19
Ghosts danced at Dior on Monday, as an enchanted audience witnessed Maria Grazia Chiuri pay homage not just to the association between Christian Dior and the world of dance, but also to the great women who have helped to shape the history of dance.
– by Tony Glenville
Marie Rambert who danced with Diaghilev, Mary Wigman who pioneered new movement in dance, or Pina Bausch and her visions of how dance communicates, all could be traced in some way through the presentation.
Spectacular light was focussed in the centre of the dark space as a single figure moved through a shower of petals, introducing us to the way the dancers integrated with the models as they circled and swayed amongst them.
Often in trios of looks, the models formed a counterpoint to the rhythms of the dancers.
The collection showed the rigour of thought Chiuri brings to the house signatures, with the strict silhouette of the Bar jacket, and the swish and sway of the New Look pleated skirts at the heart of the season.
Taking the soft fluidity of many dancers dress, from the draperies of Isadora Duncan, through to the fit and flare of Martha Graham the essence of many dance looks was incorporated into the collection with great subtlety. The flip of a hem, the drape of a shoulder or simply the longer lines moving with a dancers fluid grace. The palette of somber black and shades of face powder beige heightened the feeling of classicism, and the bursts of embroidery, embellishment and shimmering glitter appeared dreamlike as they twinkled under the lights.
The editing of the collection had a dancers rigour to it, with no extraneous fuss or bother, and the audience was swept into applause as the final wave of models and dancers flowed out of the vast dramatic space.
If in the final analysis the collection broke no new ground it nevertheless made a strong statement of Maria Grazia Chiuri and her creative vision; great pieces to buy and wear.
It covered all options, from a simple clean jacket, through to a collectors item embroidered tulle skirt. Above all, the collection is build on the firm foundation of the reality of clothes, never as simple a task as it seems when it comes to fashion.
Dior RTW SS19 – Paris Fashion Week 2018 – Spring-Summer 19
Dior Ready To Wear SS19 – A Dance to the Music of Time – DNMAG